Fashion knowledge:Trousers (Slacks)

Fashion knowledge:Trousers (Slacks)

Following the previous Single Tailored Jacket, No.2 of the Fashion Knowledge Series is slacks which is familiar with business suit.

Belt roop スラックスのディテール(各部の名称、寸法)
Pocket
Crease(Center Press)

Fittings

On the right is a drawing of Slacks folded by crease line, view from the side. Its silhouette will be determined by the width of each part.

①Waist
Waist should be fitted so that you can put your palm. If it’s too loose, it’ll have crease when tightened with belt, if it’s too tight, pleat (tuck) or pocket will be opened.
②Width of crotchline
It’s the width of the slacks at the hight of the leg.
③Width of Knee
It’s the width of the slacks at the knee part.
④Width of Bottom
It’s the width of hem. It is better to confirm the balance with the shoes.

The width of slacks become thinner from the waist to hem, and the slacks with even thinner width from knee to hem is called Tailored slacks.

Variation of details

Break
It’s the hem position standing with shoes on. Length of hem depends on its style.
full_break half_break no_break
Full break Half break No break

The basic is full break and the less the breaks are, the more sporty(casual) slacks are. For example, if you wear mixed style with different jacket and pants and wish to lighten your foot, classic is double with no break.

Hems
plain_bottoms cuffed_bottoms angled_bottoms
Plain bottoms Cuffed bottoms Angled bottoms

Plain bottoms is more dressy (formal) than Cuffed bottoms. Cuffed bottoms goes well with mixed style with different jacket and pants. Standard width of Cuffed bottoms is 4cm, but if you are tall you can make it wider to take balance.

Pocket
There are mainly 2 sorts.
vertical_pocket slanted_pocket
Vertical Pocket Forward-set Pocket

Vertical has pocket opening at the same line as side stitching. Vertical is more dressy (formal.)

Pleats
With pleat, there are more space around waist and thigh. Slim silhouette is often with no pleat.
no_pleat pleated
No pleats Pleated

Whether the hem is single or double is a big difference. By knowing which is more dressy, you can choose depending on the situation such as a double slacks for mixed style with different jacket and pants and a single for dark suits.

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